Showing posts with label Granada. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Granada. Show all posts

Thursday, July 14, 2016

The Good, The Bad, The Crazy

The Good:

My heart smiles when I watch Lochlan (13 months) absorb the sights and sounds of city life. She waves to everyone and will cry if no one is in view. When I look back on all the traveling and schlepping we have done over the past two weeks, I am reminded of her stamina and strength, and that makes me proud. Saca said she walked across the plaza yesterday (Plaza de San Miguel Bajo) and commented on not being able to recall the last time she saw her crawl for any distance. I think it's special to be able to, one day, tell her she learned to walk in Granada, Spain.

Making new friends and building structures in the Francesco Tonucci exhibit.
Playing soccer in the plaza.
Determined to add her ball to this contraption at the Science Park.
Pretending she's the bull and Keller is the matador.
My dangerous attempt at keeping her safe on a bus ride to Ronda.
I will bring a carseat on our next excursion.

For Keller, this has been a coming of age story. Yes, he just turned four but for some reason the jump from three to four has felt very significant - like we are leaving the era of little kid-ness. Of course there are still times when I push him too hard, when his (inherited) stubbornness rears its ugly head, and when exhaustion takes over and results in a complete melt down... But for the most part, it has been amazing to watch him step up to the challenge. He helps me push the pram up the grueling cobblestone streets. He tries to help taxi drivers put our things into the trunks of their cars. He is starting to order ice cream in Spanish and he says "hola" to just about everyone we pass along our quiet neighborhood streets. And I think it is really good for him to see me encountering new obstacles daily (language, transportation, entertainment, etc.) and for him to have the opportunity to help me work through many of those challenges.

I am treasuring our walks down to the dried fruit market, taking the trash out at night, and dribbling the soccer ball up to get a gatorade at the tiny grocery store before bed. During siesta time, and in an effort to avoid the scorching mid-day heat, we play inside. The walls of our little apartment are starting to fill with his paintings and papers that come home from spanish class, reminding me yet again that you need very little to make a strange place feel like home.

Doing some number work.
The annual soccer ball picture taken on his fourth birthday.
From inside the theatre as we watched Mi Amigo el Gigante.
After Spanish class with his "man bag."

Finding activities out of the house has been a challenge, which I will write more about below. But sticking to the good, our discovery of the Parque de las Ciencias has been a godsend. We go just about every day and spend hours building structures, learning about disaster relief, and playing with various puzzles and contraptions.

I think this could entertain him for an hour.
Playing with, building with, and eating the dominoes.
One of the many soccer fields Keller has constructed during our time at the Park.
Learning about tsunamis.
P.S. He is now fascinated with the sinking of the Titanic!

The Bad:

I was 22 the last time I was in Granada - hardly a time in my life when I was surveying the surroundings to assess how child friendly they would be. Well it turns out this city does not rank very high on that chart. I am not kidding when I say there is NO GRASS here. Playgrounds are few and far between, which would be okay if the play structures were not also made of metal and fully exposed to the elements. On the 100 degree days we are having, they scream skin cancer and second degree burns. Surely the moms here do something with their kids in the summer! I've scoured the internet, I stop people with kids in the street and ask for suggestions, we quiz the local librarian and shopkeepers... Two weeks in to living here and the playbook has yet to surface. During a conversation with the librarian yesterday, he said we needed to go to the next town to find grass - I kid you not!

The little green you do see near the Alhambra is trees.
We are living in an urban desert!

A Glimpse Into The Crazy:

Everyone warned me about Lochlan walking, but so far the walking has not been a problem. The game changer has been the climbing. She can lift that little leg up to her shoulder and hoist herself up on just about anything. We go to the library, I turn around and she's on top of a chair. I turn my back for a second while trying to get ready for the day and she's literally climbing up to the top bunk. (Yes - she can make it all the way up there by herself. Thankfully it has not happened without me or Saca being there.) She climbs the pram. She climbs shelving… And just about everywhere here has tiled or stone flooring. Prayers for this little monkey's safety. Her lack of fear and desire to do and see everything is both awesome and crazy!

Climbing the ladder.
At the top!
Climbing the pram.

After long days of trying to find our way, I enjoy a good laugh over some of the things that get lost in translation. This advert was slipped under our apartment door one afternoon. Take out anyone?

An advert slipped under the apartment door. 

Getting groceries from a real grocery store, is half a day's work and looks something like this:
- I load the kids into the stroller and ski down into town (think sledding behind a ~70 box on wheels).
- Walk another mile or so to the Corte Engles, continually going out of my way to stay in the shade because it is so insanely hot outside.
- Once inside Corte Engles, we maneuver through the narrow, crowded isles to the elevators located in the back corner of the store and head to the basement level.
- Although shopping carts are available, they are like micro-trolleys, which means I can either ditch the stroller somewhere (which as I type this may be a strategy I try next time), or have Keller jump out and let his side of the double stroller serve as the shopping cart.
- In this scenario, we typically make it about half way through our list before Lochlan begins (a) trying to eat whatever is within reach (raw meats and cleaning supplies are always stored overheard), and (b) kicking and throwing things out of the stroller which Keller then turns into an "absolutely hilarious" game of catch.
- Around this point the phrase "this is a disaster" starts rolling off the tongue at every turn. We manage to grab the last of the "must have" items before squeezing into the very narrow checkout isle where I attempt to unload and reload our purchases (no bag boys here) while keeping an eye on Keller and preventing Loch from an absolute meltdown.
- Then it's Keller back into the pram, the 4 or so packed shopping bags slipped onto the stroller handles, and back to the elevators where I am now positioned to maneuver an even larger load through the store and back outside.
- We make it outside and hail a cab. Thankfully, the drivers here are pretty amenable and usually hop out to help me load the kids, groceries, and stroller into their tiny car.
- We try to entertain Lochlan (who is not in a car seat) to prevent her from screaming the entire way and/or taking a dive inside or (worse) outside of the moving car.
- Finally we arrive home, unload, and squeeze back through the door of our little apartment.

Snapped a picture at the end of a shopping trip yesterday.



Thursday, July 7, 2016

Life in Granada

We are living in the Albaicin district of Granada, a place rich in history dating back to the 11th century. The cobblestone streets are steep, winding, and narrow - so narrow in some places you have to slip into a door frame just to let a small car pass by. These streets create a maze of motion: locals going to market, tourists coming to see the many landmarks hidden in these hills, and the random person (me) pushing a double stroller nearly the size of the small cars mentioned above as she tries to make her way from point A to point B. 

The tight squeeze of the roads in the AlbaicĂ­n

Part of the maze.

The church at the top of our street. 

Another view from our roof.

For those who don't know, I spent a few months studying in Granada 13 years ago. I fell in love with the charm, the people, and the challenge of the city. It's not much bigger than my hometown of Greensboro, but the fact that it's urban and people walk everywhere makes it feel three or four times bigger. The Sierra Nevada Mountains line the horizon. The summer days are hot, the wine is cheap, and the local olives and olive oils are endless.

Our apartment has just about everything I could have hoped for. One aircon unit on the second floor (much better than none in 100+ degree weather). There is a small, well-stocked kitchen, a quaint living area, two bedrooms, and two baths. The terrace on the third floor is where we hang our clothes out to dry during the day and where we look for stars, sip on Spanish wine, and share stories at night. I had to pinch myself the other night when I looked up and saw Keller working on his writing with the Alhambra in the background. When I asked Mike to promise me that we could spend one year of our lives in Spain, this was everything I had imagined and more. If only he were here, it would be perfect.

Keller working on the roof terrace. 

Our dryer.

The large grocery store is a 20-minute walk from the apartment (down those steep and windy alleyways), but there's a tiny little market at the top of our street with some basics and, best of all, homemade ice cream. Just down from us, there is an Arab market with spices and dried fruit that we frequent as well.

Some of the dried fruit we like to purchase.

At night, Keller enjoys dribbling a soccer ball up to the square. We play pass and steal in front of a church that dates back to the 13th century, which is completely surreal. Tonight he slipped on one of the cobblestones and cut his head open. The blood was enough to freak me out a bit. I took him up to the next square with hopes the little town doctor would still be open. No luck, so we settled for some hydrogen peroxide, frozen peas, and a chupa-chupa (lollipop). I will take him back to the doctor in the morning to make sure everything is okay. I sent up some big prayers for my little guy. Thankfully, he was back in good spirits within the hour and lively enough to still want to help with the nightly duties before bed. 

Keller taking the garbage out.

We celebrated the fourth of July yesterday with as much festivity as seemed safe and possible. Part of the group grabbed burgers from burger king and some of us pretended with falafels and schwarmas. Saca designed handmade American flags and we enjoyed a close game of American citizenship trivia with our new friends from Utah. Seeing everyone's pictures on Facebook made me miss home a bit. 

July 4th celebrations with our new pals from Utah.

Ice cream on the 4th.
Even Loch Loch got a cone. 
Tomorrow we are traveling south to seek out a few new adventures before Joan heads back to the US – Ronda and Gibraltar, here we come!